In 1840, A.A. Cooper arrived in Dubuque, Iowa. He and his family became prominent members of the town and were nationally recognized for the A.A. Cooper Wagon and Buggy Company. While the history of the buggy works is a story for another time, today’s focus is on the naturally inspired design of three of their family pocket watches.
The largest watch was likely owned by A.A. Cooper, Sr. (1829-1919), the founder of the A.A. Cooper Wagon and Buggy Company. This mid-1800s watch features a movement engraved with “Sylvester L. Samuel” from Duke Street, Liverpool, England. It is made up of an outer and inner casing made of yellow 18k gold, decorated with seashells in relief. The watch cord is made from braided and twisted horsehair, ending in a hook shaped like a tree branch.
Horsehair was a popular material for making decorative cords because its strands are long, fine, and stiff while still remaining flexible. Cord braiders employed a technique called “tablework,” which involved laying the strands along the radii of a small round table with the hairs meeting through a hole at the center. Bobbins were used to manipulate the strands, allowing for intricate patterns that utilized hundreds of hair strands to create small but detailed jewelry and accessories.
The second watch belonged to Kathryn Josephine Cooper (1866-1961), one of A.A.’s five daughters. She received this tri-gold watch—crafted by Elgin (movement) and Ball, Parker & Waters (case)—on Christmas Eve in 1885. The back of the case is embossed with a peacock design made of rose, white, and green gold. The peacock is depicted perched on a tree amidst acorns and leaves resembling pinecones.
The Indian peafowl, particularly the male's display, has carried various meanings throughout history. This watch was made during the Art Nouveau movement when the peacock symbolized decadence and beauty. In classical antiquity, the peacock represented rebirth and spring, often associated with the goddess Hera in Greek mythology or Juno in Roman mythology. The oak tree, along with its springtime acorns, also symbolizes renewal and growth.
The final watch belonged to A.A. Cooper, Jr. (1869-1942), Kathryn Josephine's brother. He received his watch, also made by Elgin (movement) and the American Watch Company (case), on Christmas Eve in 1884. His watch is initialed “A.A.C.,” with the “C” stylized as a horseshoe. While the case may be less elaborate than the other two, the watch chain and fob are striking features, likely intended to be visible even while the watch is pocketed. The fob is made from an elk tooth.
Although this fob may not be original to the watch, elk tooth fobs were commonly used to signify membership in the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks (BPOE), a charitable fraternal organization that started as a social club. The Elk Lodge #297 was established in Dubuque in 1895, years after A.A. Jr. received his gift. Regardless of any BPOE associations, elk teeth were viewed as symbols of good luck.
While we may never fully understand the personal significance of each piece, who specifically gifted them, or the reasoning behind the choices made, we hope visitors can appreciate the nature-inspired beauty and the mystery behind the Cooper family pocket watches.
